Where F30 flags an open sensor circuit, F31 flags the opposite on an older Evolution range: the board sees almost no resistance across the oven sensor. To decide between a bad probe and a bad wire,…
Where F30 flags an open sensor circuit, F31 flags the opposite on an older Evolution range: the board sees almost no resistance across the oven sensor. To decide between a bad probe and a bad wire, the manual unplugs the sensor and measures it alone. A good one still reads 1080 to 1110 ohms, so anything near zero there condemns the probe.
Home measurement is not practical, but a note helps. 1. Turn the breaker off. 2. Write down whether the oven ran hot or would not heat at all, since a shorted sensor looks like an impossibly high temperature to the board. 3. Give us that when you book.
The measurement is simple, but reaching the plug means shifting a heavy range and working in a cramped space that, on gas models, sits above the manifold.
Usually not. The board stops heating instead of acting on an impossible reading, so the oven goes cold rather than racing away. Nothing else in the oven is stressed by it.
The board believes the oven is far hotter than it is, so it declines to heat. The sensor circuit, not the heating parts, is the likely culprit.
A technician diagnoses it on site and gives you the price in writing before any work starts.